Then, after threading the line through the stanchion, I would make another eye splice and insert a stainless steel thimble. Steel lifelines live hidden in a plastic casing, slowly rusting away without … Then I made my first splice. **I’ll drop a link at the bottom of this post to the YouTube video I used for making my Dyneema Brummel locking eye splice using only one end of the line. I added just a few extra inches on each piece so I wouldn’t be short. I had already done several projects that helped me learn how to splice Dyneema line. Above, I have the section pulled nice and tight so that I could try to see where I wanted the middle of that eye splice to lay. I replaced my coated SS lifelines with dyneema 3 years ago. (Hey, ya gotta save money anywhere you can when outfitting a cruising boat!) Our gate section, mirrored on each side, is 7-feet long and a straight shot (no stanchions or obstructions from start to finish). Happy to help. Again, times 4 = 66 feet. I would cow hitch that around the stanchion or through the attachment point like below. Then I made my first splice. To start, I would just need to splice a locking eye-splice into one end of the Dyneema line. Dyneema Brummel Lock-Splice with One Side Fixed, DIY Dyneema Lifelines by Tula’s Endless Summer, Dyneema Lifelines: Replacing Standard Cable Lifelines with Dyneema Synthetic Lifelines on a Sailboat, Watmough Bay, Lopez Island – Cruiser’s Review July 2020. Dyneema is stronger than steel and a fraction of the weight. My gates are 7 feet long, so for each piece, I made my first eye splice. Joined 10 Nov 2009 Messages 1,532 Location Wetherby. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Hope it helps if you decide to make the switch. Oh, I should also mention that I tried to find regular eye bolts to just thread into that pelican hook. Your email address will not be published. On my project, I calculated that I needed a total length of about 108 feet. From there, I went up top and cow hitched those sections on and pulled them tight to mark where I would need the middle of the other end’s eye splice to lay. *We’re not associated with either of these videos in any way. Plus a longer section toward the bow on each side. There are no PHRF races I can participate in San Diego except perhaps one short buoy race a year. Thank you. I added just a few extra inches on each piece so I wouldn’t be short. I couldn’t find any that fit because they were actually reverse-threaded. For the gate pieces, I calculated that I needed 13″ (bury) + 10″ (splice loop on one end) + 84″ (7-foot stretch) + 5″ (splice loop on thimble side) + 13″ (bury) = 125″ which is about 10 1/2 feet. Hope it helps if you decide to make the switch. I used 1/4-inch Dyneema for this project. That is not truly where you want the center to be because you need to account for a few extra inches that will be taken up in the process of the cow hitch to attach it to the pelican hook. The choice facing you will be to use single braid or double braid Dyneema. On my project, I calculated that I needed a total length of about 108 feet. Are you ready to replace your old cable lifelines with synthetic Dyneema!? They look so much better than our old rusty cable lifelines and I trust the strength of the Dyneema. Dyneema has a slightly different molecular structure than Spectra and higher breaking strength in the larger diameters. So to heck with racing rules. If you check the current thread on Jackstays there is mention (and I think a link) to installing dyneema life lines. It also doesn't hold a knot well, and knots significantly reduce its strength, so terminations should be spliced. Dyneema works great for lifelines. I used CS Johnson splice fittings, mostly the threaded studs so I could reuse the turnbuckles and gate hardware. You will need enough room in them to go back and make them tighter later on. That could be with a lashing or could be integral to the clasp, depending on what type of clasp you use. So I started out by making an eye splice on one end of each of the four pieces of Dyneema that I was going to use for my gates. See below. Give it a go!! From that point, you need to prepare your lashing. Fittings are all good. Thankfully, rather than spending $60 on new pelican hooks, I was able to get some assistance from my stepdad. This project seemed like it would be a good option for us and fairly easy to apply. I replaced the sheathed metal lifelines with these Dyneema lifelines and used lashings made of Dyneema to tighten the lines. The total cost was around $600 and I learned how to eye splice a single braid rope. Do you have questions on the process at all? Happily, my stepdad was able to find some suitable parts and just weld them together. The forward section of lifeline is 13.5 feet long and has a stanchion that the line has to pass through. Happily, my stepdad was able to find some suitable parts and just weld them together. For use as abrasion resistant, lightweight fibre lifelines. 18 Dec 2020 #4 Halo Well-known member. Once I had removed the old lifeline, I cleaned up the connection points. It is strong, but does deteriorate quicker than bare stainless steel lifelines. Required fields are marked *. Nice explanation of each step including pictures. Then I attached the new lifeline to the forward stanchion with a cow hitch knot. by admin | Feb 16, 2021 | Boat Projects & Improvements, Mosaic Voyage Blog, Written by Rachel | 6 comments. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress. I didn’t need to worry about a stanchion in the middle but I did need to figure out how I was going to tension it. Light in weight and easy on the line, they fit 1/4" Dyneema, which is 1/7th the weight, the same strength and similar in cost to steel 1x19 cable. They offer a strength greater than steel without any of the corrosion issues. Maximize the factor of safety you have on your lifelines by using the largest line possible. I understand Dyneema lifelines may not be allowed in PHRF races anymore. I gave myself 4 inches on each side of that center mark for the length of the splice loop. Then, carefully tighten this up as much as you can. This fiber is popular in Europe and is gaining popularity in the US. I wanted it a good 6-8 inches from the attachment point on the other end to give plenty of room to stretch the lifeline tight before lashing. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress. This project seemed like it would be a good option for us and fairly easy to apply. Now you’re ready to do your lashing. They look so much better than our old rusty cable lifelines and I trust the strength of the Dyneema. It displays slightly better wear characteristics in heavy use areas, but has more elasticity than Honeywell’s Spectra 1000. From that point, I needed to go up to and start working on-site. You will likely have a different arrangement on your boat so the project will merit some critical thinking and careful planning. Be very careful at this step to make sure to do your calculations correctly. To make your lifelines first Measure the distance between the pulpit and pushpit attachment points through the stanchions. So I need 4 lengths of that measurement as we have 2 lifeline gates on each side of the boat. by admin | Apr 17, 2019 | Mosaic Voyage Blog, Written by Rachel | 6 comments. For mine, I used a smaller Dyneema line that I already had here at the boat. Above, I have the section pulled nice and tight so that I could try to see where I wanted the middle of that eye splice to lay. Nice explanation of each step including pictures. Oh, I should also mention that I tried to find regular eye bolts to just thread into that pelican hook. It took a total of about 8 hours to install the lines. You will need enough room in them to go back and make them tighter later on. I passed a smaller diameter piece of Dyneema through that thimble several times to tension the lifeline and lash it in place. Thanks! Overall, transitioning to Dyneema® lifelines provides significant benefits and is a cost-effective and inexpensive upgrade. That’s a total of 42 feet. Replacing Standard Cable Lifelines with Dyneema Synthetic Lifelines on a Cruising Sailboat. I wanted to give myself some extra room so I purchased 120 feet. Have had to tighten them once or twice as they stretched out a bit, but no big deal there. Next, pass the tail through the thimble and then retrace the figure 8 knot backward through the knot. Professional splicing recommended. From that point, you need to prepare your lashing. When it is tight, finish the lashing with a bunch of half hitches. These were $15 each though and I needed four strands of the gate sections. This allowed me to bring it back around into a cow hitch on the pelican hook side. Don’t cut your pieces too short! Marlow LIFELINE is high strength, very low elongation and creep, manufactured to exact diameter specification to comply with ISAF code. Doing the gate sections was a little different. Then, after threading the line through the stanchion, I would make another eye splice and insert a stainless steel thimble. For the forward pieces, I calculated that I needed: 13″ (bury) + 10″ (splice loop on cow hitch side) + 162″ (13.5-foot stretch) + 5″ (splice loop on thimble side) + 13″ (bury) = 197″ which is about 16 1/2 feet. High-tech rope lifelines made from Dyneema line such as Samson AmSteel or New England Ropes' STS-WR2 are a third option. Having no lifeline was… liberating. *Here’s a link to a YouTube video for the splice I used: Dyneema Brummel Lock-Splice with One Side Fixed, *And here’s a link to a YouTube video for the whole project: DIY Dyneema Lifelines by Tula’s Endless Summer. I used 3/16-inch amsteel-blue, which is single-braid dyneema. I didn’t need to worry about a stanchion in the middle but I did need to figure out how I was going to tension it. When it is tight, finish the lashing with a bunch of half hitches. We attached to the original components used for the stainless steel lifelines using a halyard knot and simply tightening using the bottle screw. It took a total of about 8 hours to install the lines. Total cost for double lifelines with gates on both sides on my 33 footer was a bit over $300. Instead, I used the adjustability of the screw section of my ‘pelican hook’ gate hooks to be able to shorten or lengthen the run. Synthetic lifelines allow you to replace your questionable steel lifelines with dyneema that will provide you with a very lightweight lifeline that is immune to corrosion and easy to install yourself. Single braid is easier to splice and unambiguous in its sizing—5mm single braid (the maximum thickness needed for lifelines) will be just that, whereas a 5mm double braid will actually have … This allowed me to bring it back around into a cow hitch on the pelican hook side. ~Rachel. For the bottom lifeline, I wrapped the line all the way around the stanchion and used the connection point as a guide. First, I detached the old lifelines and cut them off with a cable cutter to remove them from through the stanchion. Now you’re ready to do your lashing. Are you still happy with your lifelines, would you do anything differently given the chance? I used low friction rings and dyneema lashings to pull them tight. Required fields are marked *. One thing to be aware of is sun damage, to Dyneema some experts recommend replacing it every 5 years due to. From that point, I needed to go up to and start working on-site. ~Rachel, Your email address will not be published. Feel free to shoot me a comment or a message on Facebook and I would be happy to help if I can! Have you had any problems with chafe? Once noted, I went back down below and made my next splices. Of course, you’ll need extra length on each end of every section for making your splices. Let me know if you have questions. Then, it was just a matter of adjusting the length of the screw/threaded section to ensure a nice snug fit of the gate. I wanted to give myself some extra room so I purchased 120 feet. ~Rachel. Our last comparison for replacement lifelines aboard a sailboat is synthetic line. If I can do it, so can you! On the cow hitch end, which I was doing first, I wanted an inside loop of about 10 inches. It is easy to install, can be spliced, doesn’t rust, and is easy to handle. That wrapped up the first of the forward sections of Dyneema lifelines on our sailboat. For the lifeline, I wanted to use Dyneema. First, attach one end of the lashing line to the lifeline at the thimble with a double figure 8 knot. This last year I replaced my rusting life lines on my E29 with 5MM Silver Dyneema. For the eye splice, I would need a bury length of 12.5 inches, which I rounded up to 13″. Then, I passed them through the stanchion, measuring to where I wanted the splice and thimble to be. Replacing Lifelines. Not only were they too thin she had been used only for racing, so I guess the wire was underspecified to save a few pounds but they were all too obviously old and dangerously corroded. You can use a piece of line for this small enough to pass through the stanchions. Our Favorite Technique For Safely Docking Our Sailboat- No Jumping Allowed! Then, I passed them through the stanchion, measuring to where I wanted the splice and thimble to be. How To DIY Install Dyneema Lifelines on a Sailboat. Then again, I sail solo these days. Jonathan . Let me know if you have questions. To make new lifelines ourselves, we felt we had three options: swageless fittings (Suncor, Hi-Mod, etc.) For the gate pieces, I calculated that I needed 13″ (bury) + 10″ (splice loop on one end) + 84″ (7-foot stretch) + 5″ (splice loop on thimble side) + 13″ (bury) = 125″ which is about 10 1/2 feet. Suncor Quick Attach Lifeline kits no longer include the wire it is sold separately and is available at Sailrite. tensile strength vs. 3,700lb. Summary I replaced the aged stainless steel cable lifelines on my boat with Dyneema synthetic lines. Time to replace the old plastic coated life lines with (most likely) non plastic covered wire. These thin high-tech Dyneema lines hold more weight than the same diameter wire in steel! **I’ll drop a link at the bottom of this post to the YouTube video I used for making my Dyneema Brummel locking eye splice using only one end of the line. Replacing Your Lifelines When we acquired our new boat I saw at a glance that the plastic-sheathed lifelines were junk. Dyneema is stronger than steel wire by diameter and lighter and cheaper and much easier to work with. Replacing old wire life lines on an Island Packet 40 using Dyneema 6mm lineGadeaPlanet Music:https://gadeaplanet.bandcamp.com for 3/16" vinyl coated wire), Dyneema is not as protected against chafe as stainless steel wire but is very easy on the hands and body. We decided to replace our lifelines from the standard wire or cable lifelines (ours were coated in plastic) to Dyneema synthetic lifelines. Johnson advises replacing the line at three-year intervals. Next, pass the tail through the thimble and then retrace the figure 8 knot backward through the knot. Then I measured out 7 feet from the end of the splice loop, plus an extra 5 inches for the loop and plus another 13 inches for the splice bury. Wrap it around at least twice and pull it as tight as you can get it. Replaced my lifelines (coating cracked every inch or so, lots of rust coming through) with dyneema today. Thank you. Dyneema, made of High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE), is stronger and much lighter than steel. Then, carefully tighten this up as much as you can. Our Favorite Technique For Safely Docking Our Sailboat- No Jumping Allowed! Cost of the total Project $120 … To start, I would just need to splice a locking eye-splice into one end of the Dyneema line. I could have purchased new pelican hooks at the local chandlery. I also picked up a fid to help with the locking bromel splices. Above, my left index finger is pointing right to where the line actually bent back when I passed the line through the loop in the pelican hook. So, if time is coming up to replace your lifelines, why not give Dyneema® a try? For the forward pieces, I calculated that I needed: 13″ (bury) + 10″ (splice loop on cow hitch side) + 162″ (13.5-foot stretch) + 5″ (splice loop on thimble side) + 13″ (bury) = 197″ which is about 16 1/2 feet. We chose Dyneema Dux for our comparison and on our own boat. My gates are 7 feet long, so for each piece, I made my first eye splice. First, I detached the old lifelines and cut them off with a cable cutter to remove them from through the stanchion. Once I had removed the old lifeline, I cleaned up the connection points. 100meters from China ($50) is enough to replace the lifelines AND the trampoline lashing, too. Above, my left index finger is pointing right to where the line actually bent back when I passed the line through the loop in the pelican hook. Contact me if you’d like to brainstorm ideas for installing Dyneema lifelines on your boat! If I can do it, so can you! The pelican hooks I used were the existing ones from the previous set of lifeline gates. So I need 4 lengths of that measurement as we have 2 lifeline gates on each side of the boat. We still love ours! I passed a smaller diameter piece of Dyneema through that thimble several times to tension the lifeline and lash it in place. I slipped the splice through the loop on the pelican hook and looped the splice loop back over the pelican hook. From there, I went up top and cow hitched those sections on and pulled them tight to mark where I would need the middle of the other end’s eye splice to lay. So pay attention to that when planning your lifelines. This project seemed like it would be a good option for us and fairly easy to apply. Although it’s lightweight, UV-resistant and extremely strong (7,400lb. Designing a New Stern Arch for Our Solar Panels! After initial construction and installation, Dyneema lifelines will need to be re-tensioned occasionally as the rope fibers and strands settle into the load.

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