Also sounds like 300hp is the upper limit of reasonable, so I’d go with that. Thanks. - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums, Remove Resonator for Intake Or Change Exhaust? I have been told that a chambered muffler will kill power and could possibly damage the aftermarket turbo. Should I then go up to 2″ with crush bends to end up with something close to 1.75″ pipe flow? Raneet – You don’t need the ‘expansion can’, (which I assume is a resonator or muffler) because the gases have cooled quite a bit by the time they get to the end of the system. Running 2- 5″ Aeroturbine mufflers in tandem and 5″ all the way out including the tail pipe. It could be that your exhaust gases stay nice and hot after they exit the muffler, but I’d bet against it. Excellent! Problem is to get a true dual exhaust system on this car I will need to go to a small pipe size under and to the rear of the car. First 4 cilinder in 1 and second 4 in the other. The stock system is a ~2.13″ single pipe (likely with a 2.0″ ID although I haven’t checked this). 1.75″ headers, w/3″collectors – into 2.5″ Y-pipe 6′ long – into a single 3″ o2 pipe that is 8″long – a 3″ X 21″ long cat – then to a 3″ single inlet, duel outlet flow through muffler – feeding 2, 3″ tailpipes. As for the idea that you want to neck down the x-pipes, it’s an interesting concept, but I’d guess it would have no appreciable impact. Mitch – There’s some room for error in the numbers, especially if we’re talking about older vehicles…the combustion efficiency can very greatly from one to the next, depending on the type of parts you’re working with (basic carb, or EFI conversion? Having said all of this, if the engine is mostly stock, a stock intake and exhaust will probably perform best. I’d suggest finding a tuned cat-back system and then build off that. Im sure performance can be improved by changing some components. This system stands out because it’s designed to seamlessly integrate into your OEM system. Also, you aren’t the first person to talk about hotroding an SUV. Additionally, I’m not convinced that scavenging is a big concern, simply because it’s hard to get a good resonance pulse going on an older engine like this. Straight pipe should be fine…only it might be loud. Doesn’t sound like much, but when you’re getting 13 or so……. Hi I found your chart very helpfully as a quick reference. 2nd vehicle is a 2000 S-10 with stock V6 running 2.5″ dual exhaust. 3) Does the 3″ after the muffler make any difference or should I just go 2.5″ to the rear? Regards. Due to the structure of this style Camaro it is almost impossible to install a dual exhaust system. In fact, it might even help you with your 0-60 times to be a little undersized. Thank you so much for the response Jason – really helpful. I have recently went ahead with the project and removed the muffler, I have used a stainless steel straight pipe in it’s place. Rated 520/540 HP/Lb-ft Tuned to 610/650 HP/Lb-ft. I’d tell him not to go easy, I’d want a single exhaust of the appropriate size. It’s a LSX440 CI with 700FWHP. At lower RPMs, this “pool” of heavier, denser exhaust gases hinders performance. It’s also not very aggressive in its sound and performance, so it may not be enough for some people. Im running dual 2.25 pipes. Reply. 🙂. Some really cool stuff! One bank collector has a mandrel 90deg bend but other side has two 90deg and a 45deg. Because you’re running a fairly inefficient engine (stoichiometrically speaking), I’d guess you’ll have a hard time going too big. But I can’t find anyone locally to San Jose CA area that does Mandrel bends. -4 barrel holley throttle plate with an Impco 425 mixer on top of it (its -running on propane) The factory exhaust does a good job of performing both at low RPMs and high RPMs, all things considered. Worthy to note that the exhausts temp. Can I go any bigger? I’d suggest leaving it be. Ahmad – I can’t say for sure, but it’s probably fine. Do you think 2.5″ will be a major restriction with forced induction? (2” or 2,5”). For all those wanting flow without noise, the walker quietflow mufflers are great. Generally speaking, under-sized tubing doesn’t cost you low-end torque: It costs you peak horsepower. You can be confident in your new exhaust system when it comes to Flowmaster. Given my primary tube limitation, would I benefit substantially by scrapping the 2 1/4″ system provided for a 2 3/4″? Still, a dual 2.25″ exhaust is awfully big for an engine rated at 200hp. 🙂. But could you also provide the information about the calculation of dimensions of exhaust manifold(at least the scale down one’s)for a 3200 cubic centimeter inline four engine. - Page 3 - Toyota Minis - Dedicated to Classic Toyota Pickup, Hilux, and Stout Truck Owners, Glenn's build thread - Page 9 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum, Some Advice if possible - Page 2 - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum, Quick Questions for Quick Answers - Page 4 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum, Exhaust - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums, CBE- not right away, but looking at FS Werkes and Magnaflow, Official 302 N/A dyno numbers thread! 🙂, Ok I just did a chevy 6.0 swap. Did the opposite by keeping the stock pipes and replaced ten muffler The two mufflers are rusted out after about 20 years of use so need to be replaced. 3rd is a 91 Vic all stock. Roush has a limited line of performance parts; they don’t even cover all Ford models. It just depends on the length of the system between the muffler and the head. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. I’m thinking of going 1 1/2″ pipe to 2″ muffler back to 1 1/2” pipe. That should work just fine provided the cats are sized correctly. Less pressure gives you power gains and better fuel economy. Scroll to the end for a Flowmaster muffler chart that organizes Flowmaster loudest to quietest. Can’t help. If you were to upgrade the outlet size and/or add some headers, you might even lose a little low-end torque (only you gain back mid-range and top-end power). It is too loud and I cannot quiet It down. Headers can often cause this problem too. Ken – Short answer: probably, but only in the quarter mile. They don’t tend to be as impacted by oversized tubing…. Although with all the holes i doubt any exhaust is flowing past the converter anyway. i already installed short ram intake and now i’m planning on doing muffler delete. What size tips do i need 2.25 or 2.5, Whatever size you want. Thanks and sorry to bother, but you seem to have a good grasp on this topic. Long tube headers, for example, will usually result in a net loss of low end torque as a result of this necking down. It has the new Edelbrock AVS2 650 cfm carb mounted on a Pro Comp air gap intake. You’ll also want to check that the aggressive sound produced by this system is legal in your city and state. The Wrangler has two exhaust manifolds, 1.75 inch pipe coming out of each of them, which then merges into a single 2 inch pipe, a resonator follows and then a stock muffler with single exit (2inch). -Mike-. It also has black ceramic tips, which may not be the look that you’re going for on your car. More on this another day: Timing official w/SCCA at Laguna Seca here in Calif. This size work on the supercharged engine too? So, the answer to your question is I probably shouldn’t comment. Does that exaust need ratio change after you pass a certian engine size? I will be adding a new intake system in the coming months, and was also considering adding a true duel system. off cam it drove almost stock except idle was a lot rougher than stock engine. When fluids expand, they cool…and cold exhaust basically acts like a blockage, at least at low RPMs. Currently running a 65mm throttle body, factory MAF. Very Thanks. My current single pipe is 2.5 inches. MY best reasoning sz: Cut the Tri/Y’s at the end of the secondaries…& run 2″ all the way to the Bumper!!! The unfortunate truth is that the “import tuner” market is based on marketing hype and what looks cool, not what actually works. If I cannot get mandrel bends would I just size up a quarter inch on each pipe to counter the efficiency loss? of is is better to make the whole system in the same size? My advice on each point: 1. its much cheaper to just buy the super 10’s and bring them in vs having the shop get them. These systems are in contrast to a dual exhaust, which has two pipes that transfer the gases. This exhaust system is compatible with the Mitsubishi 2000-05 Eclipse 3.0L V6. More mid-range torque without sacrificing any or only a few top end bhp’s…, Roberto – It’s all about making the peak HP as high as possible. I’ve read through all the posts and can’t find anything quite like mine. If it’s designed for the heads you have, I think you’re good to go. This is a daily driver truck that I’m doing mainly for a better sound, but if I can get a little performance out of it then that’s a plus. I would love to find a ready made exhaust for this car but the only one I could find was by Apexi – it was just the muffler and only 2-3/8″. Do you have any thoughts? Free things I wanted to know really. BBC that spins at 4500 RPM max. Therefore I will go to a 2″ muffler of the correct length, I realise that the gas will expand and cool in the muffler, but it will still be more efficient than the OE setup and I’m hoping will be quieter than 2 very short mufflers of the correct pipe size (10″ includes mounting area, so they are really 7″ mufflers, so 14″ verses 22″). My best suggestion is to replace the stock system but keep the after-market muffler. That size is kinda perfect for low-end torque on this engine, which is what you really want. Even the manufacturer’s site says “this is designed for forced induction set-ups” (more or less). This means you’ll either have to be really careful when removing your old system or buy new ones. Jason,is the 2,5 inch Dual exaust system enough for 510 cu inch(550 hp),or better a 3″ pipe and muffler.Need a new one. 1st vehicle – 3″ tubes for each side of the motor are huge. It is a PZEV vehicle built for the California CARB requirements. I suspect oval is slightly more restrictive, but the difference is almost certainly insignificant. I would appreciate any suggestions. Fantastic If you’ve got a 240hp vehicle on a single exhaust, than increasing the tubing size to 2.5″ would probably be beneficial. Unfortunately, right after the modification. Quick question, is the table still accurate when translated to single pipe exhaust? Maybe the people only want to see the peak HP’s in their dyno graphs..or maybe they 3″ do magic..or they are planning to make their engines work between 7900 and 10000 RPM dunno…, as far as i understand, for NA tuning for ~250-260 HP a 2,5″ pipe is better that 3″. Building a Factory Five kit car and installed a bored/stroked 454 CI SBC producing 563 HP at 6,000 RPM and 560 Ft Lb Torque at 4,500 RPM. Good power, not much noise. I drive a Infiniti G35 with a 3.5L engine. If you can’t get mandrel bends, you can add a quarter inch. Bike engine design is different. Also, it is good to run a smaller tail pipe from the muffler back? It also has patented delta flow and Outlaw technology to improve the outflow of exhaust gases from your engine. These Akrapovic front and H pipes (HINT: the answer is no). need to…HaHa). Hi-flow cats can give you a little more, but they’re not that helpful in my experience. I believe this is way too narrow for my car and I’m arguing with them to get a refund. Would there be anything to be gained by having larger pipe before and after the cats? thank you for the chart. So, I’d keep it if I were you. But the aggressive sound isn’t where it stops. I have an cold air intake and a tune installed and stock exhaust and muffler. throuly enjoyed article 85 years old but would like little more sound have 2015 kia optima turbo would like kn typhoon and perfomance mufflers any problems has more than enough power!! Over the next few years, I started learning little … But, when it doubt, I’d say mirroring the OE configuration is best. Pete – I’m not sure. Short rear link pipes are 2.56” same as the muffler in. Also, it’s a truck. This company was founded in 1981 in Southern California, where it focuses on exhaust systems for hot rods and muscle cars. Anything short of a straight pipe is going to be restrictive at the top end. Exhaust tone also deepened without being a ridiculous “slapslap” sound (that I used to like when I was a kid). I also know there is also a pressure activated valve in the resonator that opens when the flow gets high enough – another source of back pressure (to increase low-end torque). You may also find that you need a professional installation, which will also cost more. The gases on the outlet definitely need more space/size simply because they’re hot and much less dense. Go for it. You could certainly try a larger downpipe to see what happens…I don’t think it would make any difference at all, but there’s one way to know for sure. However, having said that, it sounds like the factory muffler isn’t factory, if the engine is 4.2L. Home | About | Blog | Links | Privacy Policy | Sitemap | Contact | ©2021 ExhaustVideos.com. © document.write(new Date().getFullYear()) Brookline Media Inc. All Rights Reserved. If that’s not an option, than I’d say that your upgrades should be beneficial…it would be ideal to increase the size of the tubing in the entire system, but the reality is that a) you usually can’t for one reason or another and b) most of the time, it doesn’t matter much anyways. Thanks in advance Jason! A modern-looking exhaust system developed from heavy-gauge aluminized steel. Reply very much appreciated! Layne – First, sorry you had to double post your comments. now i have to choose between the two. Increasing tube size will get you more horsepower, but it won’t be quite as fun to drive on the street. I have a 2.5 litre 2006 Altima QR25DE engine that has 2 cats on it. I recently changed the original 2.25″ exhaust pipe and muffler on my 70’s ford F250, over to a single 2.5″ system with a “flowmaster” style muffler. I would prefer more torque than top end anyways. Recommendations? Might be an easy way to open it up and stay legal (only it depends on how your locality treats cutouts). I’m running 2″ center dump manifolds due to clearance issues. They aren’t really restrictive. Tim – The chart is definitely for naturally aspirated gas engines. *** - Page 21 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum, Benefits of an H pipe on a 305 TPI? Should I go smaller when it splits? If the exhaust speed falls too much, you compromise scavenging. But yes, I think the tubes are too big for your application. Thank you Jason. You use the correct size for the single, then smaller sizes when you go to the duals. Jeff – If you run two straight pipes on that small engine, you’re going to harm low-end performance. 3. I have a 2016 ford focus ST. Based on what I know about the stock 3.0L, it’s not powerful enough to justify a dual exhaust. I’m really just doing this as a learning experience – the car is 12 years old with 250k km’s on it so it doesn’t owe me anything. thanks! A shorter set of gears will impact your low-end a bit, but it will keep your engine in the prime torque range when you’re racing up a dune. Unfortunately, this system only fits a Dodge Neon, but not the SRT-4 model. What size should the exhaust be and dual or single. My concern is when maintain the same 3” diameter pipes further downstream will not allow for early enough conversion of exhaust exit pressure into velocity thus it could tax the engine output at lower to mid rpm range. Plz and Thank You. Thank You for the answear I have challenger 2010 3.5L V6 .. long tube headers and air system afe and system xforce ( x-pipe .. exhaust ) 2,5″ And it works good on the street ..but I dont like the exhaust sound .. So…the “dyno” says that they’re better, but the race course might disagree. You’ll appreciate that this system doesn’t require any welding to install it. The number one attribute of these exhaust systems is that they are constructed of stainless steel or a combination of stainless steel and aluminized steel. The chart is a good estimating tool, but if you can get within a quarter of an inch of the estimate, I’d say don’t sweat it. I’m in the process of installing a Jaguar AJ30 from an S Type 3.0 into my oldiash TVR S1 (1988). For #2, a crossover pipe might help with sound, but to my knowledge they have no performance benefit on V8s (some say they help with scavenging on a V8, I am not convinced of that). The muffler should be easy to find in that size configuration. I’m about to own a KIA Sorento with a 2.2L turbo diesel engine that puts out 147kw/3800 rpm and 441.3nm from 1750/2750rpm. If you haven’t purchased a tuner yet, you should check that out. You may get a droning noise inside the cab, and the pipe may be difficult to notice as it is a bit short. Especially on a carbureted 350, which is probably not as impacted by all of this anyways. 215-230 ps. From the chat I see that ideal is to use a 2 1/2 or a 2 3/4 cat back diameter. There are also specialty mufflers, like ones designed with towing in mind. Resonator Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. 🙂. To be replaced with light weight titanium identical H pipe 3” in/out In the hot version, the header is the same but the two secondary pipes are 2″ instead of 1″ 10/16 and the tail pipe consist in two 2″ tubes instead of one. I purchased a system to replace it that has 2 1/2″ pipes from both banks that go into a straight through muffler and single exit 3″. (every lb/min is roughly 10hp) All matched hardware parts and unrestricted flow) Tip diameter doesn’t matter. Met vriendelijke groet ( Dutch: I am in the Netherlands) I have heard that this setup might gain a bit of torque and produce a nicer sound. factory heads or high-perf aftermarket varieties?). Hello! Smaller diameter tubing performs better at low RPMs, which is good in a pickup. I’m planning to build a new system from the Y-Pipe back – new cat resonator and muffler. For the drone issue, you want to replace the muffler with something a little quieter and/or you want to spend some money on dynamat under your carpeting. Despite the small stock pipes, it’s actually not horrible for power although obviously it could use more. https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=104735, https://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm, https://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0505em_exh/index.html, http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=104735, http://www.magnaflow.com/wideopen/performdata.asp, https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/hawks-82-92-camaro-firebird-lsx-conversion-stainless-complete-exhaust-system-2-primary-headers-3-y-pipe-3-1-2-exhaust/, Dual exhaust questions - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums, lets see those exhaust systems - Page 3 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums, Civic VX: Headers vs stock exhaust - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com, Headers my next mod? Right here is the right site for everyone who hopes to understand this topic. Stick pipe is 1.5 inches in diameter and how I have used a 3 inch one just replacing the muffler length. OK Jason, been reading this blog for an hour & love it. Looking at your chart, my current set-up is overkill?? The engine is going to pump out lots of hot exhaust gases even at idle, and that’s going to keep velocities up.

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